It's grim up North
OK so Wednesday in Omapere, the weather continues on the heavy showers and strong winds theme. So we didn't get across to the sand dunes on the other side of Hokianga Harbour for a bit of sledging. We went back down to take a closer look at the giant Kauri trees instead. Astonishing natural wonders that they are.
Next day we went to do some bone carving. We popped down to the house of Jim Brodie and his wife Charlotte, Maoris of Scottish descent. Jim showed us all we needed to do, from drawing our pattern (I chose a traditional maori symbol of a hook, representing prosperity, freedom and also the hook the mythical Maui used to fish up the North Island, Jamie made his own pattern of the ever friendy bird the fantail which often comes to say hello when we're out and about). We then chose our bone, cow thigh bone and cut out the outline using the traditional maori tool known locally as the Dremmell Multi. From then on it was a case of trimming it down, filing it then sanding and polishing to get the final master-pieces. I have to say Jamie's is pretty damn good and Jim agreed. Mine is more of a ''representation'' shall we say.
Next day we headed further north, over the hokianga harbour on the little car ferry and up through the rolling greenery to Ahipara, at the south end of Ninety Mile Beach. The Endless Summer Lodge (ironic as the summer has clearly ended) is and old kauri building immaculately kept and right on the beach. We checked in and then took a walk round the headland to see the sunset and the surfers taking on some tasty looking waves. It is allegedly possible to surf for a full 3 minutes on one wave if you start far enough out round the point. We watched to sun set then back for another night in.
Next day was more of the same heavy showers and a strong south-westerly blowing across the beach. We decided it was time to take a go at surfing, why not?
We hired our boards and wetsuits from the hostel and headed off across the sand. To say the least it wasnt a success. The waves didn't last long enough and when they did pass they left a very strong current dragging us further along the beach. We looked up and not even being able to walk in the water and about 400 yards from where we started, headed back in. We tried one more time but it was pointless. An experience all the same.
Next day, Saturday, we left Ahipara and got on the Sand Safari bus tour from Kaitaia. This bus took us up to Cape Rienga, the most northerly point of New Zealand where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman sea meet. They were crashing together below the lighthouse. Beyond the lighthouse is a Pohutukawa tree standing all on it's own on the cliffside. This is where the Maori believe the dead leave this world and travel down to the underworld through the roots of that very tree.
On the way back we drove down the Te Paki stream to the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach. Half way down the stream we stopped off for the traditional sand dune sledging. Quite a buzz flying down the dunes, holding on for dear life and taking the odd jump here and there. Our driver also kindly informed us of all the gruesome injuries which have befallen previous sledgers and even one fatality. That actually makes it more dangerous than bungy jumping in New Zealand, a lot less expensive though.
We drove on down Ninety Mile Beach, which is infact 64 miles and is a designated highway. Halfway down we stopped to admire the handy work of some less than clever people who managed to ignore advice a few months back and stayed on the beach with their car when they had been warned to leave because of an impending storm. Needless to say it was only the occupant who left the beach that day. Their lovely old mercedes sits, half buried in sand, a monument to their stupidity.
When we got back from the tour we headed south through further rain to Kaoe Farm Hostel. This place came highly recommended and indeed is a cracking little haven. Add to that the owner is a football mad Italian with Sky TV in the garage along with table football, three large sofas, computer games and he has a football pitch in his garden. He also makes fresh pizzas of which I shall sample tonight. One of the reasons to come here was to watch the FA cup final but by 2am we were long gone citing previous boring finals as good reason not to bother. We woke to find the game had ended 3-3 and gone to penalties, still we slept well.
The showers continue to roll in and are forecast to do so for atleast 2 more days. The South Isldand is getting a real blast of winter though with snow down to 200 meters and the town of Twizel cut off. Some people believe it should be left like that, the Rough Guide author for example infamously suggested it be permanently evacuated.
A fishing boat also sunk in the far south with 6 people feared drowned. Doesn't sound like much fun down there, unless you're into your skiing.
Anyway, we're assured the sun will come back so in the meantime we'll stick to the computer games and table football.
Next day we went to do some bone carving. We popped down to the house of Jim Brodie and his wife Charlotte, Maoris of Scottish descent. Jim showed us all we needed to do, from drawing our pattern (I chose a traditional maori symbol of a hook, representing prosperity, freedom and also the hook the mythical Maui used to fish up the North Island, Jamie made his own pattern of the ever friendy bird the fantail which often comes to say hello when we're out and about). We then chose our bone, cow thigh bone and cut out the outline using the traditional maori tool known locally as the Dremmell Multi. From then on it was a case of trimming it down, filing it then sanding and polishing to get the final master-pieces. I have to say Jamie's is pretty damn good and Jim agreed. Mine is more of a ''representation'' shall we say.
Next day we headed further north, over the hokianga harbour on the little car ferry and up through the rolling greenery to Ahipara, at the south end of Ninety Mile Beach. The Endless Summer Lodge (ironic as the summer has clearly ended) is and old kauri building immaculately kept and right on the beach. We checked in and then took a walk round the headland to see the sunset and the surfers taking on some tasty looking waves. It is allegedly possible to surf for a full 3 minutes on one wave if you start far enough out round the point. We watched to sun set then back for another night in.
Next day was more of the same heavy showers and a strong south-westerly blowing across the beach. We decided it was time to take a go at surfing, why not?
We hired our boards and wetsuits from the hostel and headed off across the sand. To say the least it wasnt a success. The waves didn't last long enough and when they did pass they left a very strong current dragging us further along the beach. We looked up and not even being able to walk in the water and about 400 yards from where we started, headed back in. We tried one more time but it was pointless. An experience all the same.
Next day, Saturday, we left Ahipara and got on the Sand Safari bus tour from Kaitaia. This bus took us up to Cape Rienga, the most northerly point of New Zealand where the Pacific Ocean and Tasman sea meet. They were crashing together below the lighthouse. Beyond the lighthouse is a Pohutukawa tree standing all on it's own on the cliffside. This is where the Maori believe the dead leave this world and travel down to the underworld through the roots of that very tree.
On the way back we drove down the Te Paki stream to the northern end of Ninety Mile Beach. Half way down the stream we stopped off for the traditional sand dune sledging. Quite a buzz flying down the dunes, holding on for dear life and taking the odd jump here and there. Our driver also kindly informed us of all the gruesome injuries which have befallen previous sledgers and even one fatality. That actually makes it more dangerous than bungy jumping in New Zealand, a lot less expensive though.
We drove on down Ninety Mile Beach, which is infact 64 miles and is a designated highway. Halfway down we stopped to admire the handy work of some less than clever people who managed to ignore advice a few months back and stayed on the beach with their car when they had been warned to leave because of an impending storm. Needless to say it was only the occupant who left the beach that day. Their lovely old mercedes sits, half buried in sand, a monument to their stupidity.
When we got back from the tour we headed south through further rain to Kaoe Farm Hostel. This place came highly recommended and indeed is a cracking little haven. Add to that the owner is a football mad Italian with Sky TV in the garage along with table football, three large sofas, computer games and he has a football pitch in his garden. He also makes fresh pizzas of which I shall sample tonight. One of the reasons to come here was to watch the FA cup final but by 2am we were long gone citing previous boring finals as good reason not to bother. We woke to find the game had ended 3-3 and gone to penalties, still we slept well.
The showers continue to roll in and are forecast to do so for atleast 2 more days. The South Isldand is getting a real blast of winter though with snow down to 200 meters and the town of Twizel cut off. Some people believe it should be left like that, the Rough Guide author for example infamously suggested it be permanently evacuated.
A fishing boat also sunk in the far south with 6 people feared drowned. Doesn't sound like much fun down there, unless you're into your skiing.
Anyway, we're assured the sun will come back so in the meantime we'll stick to the computer games and table football.
posted by PeterZ at 8:36 PM
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