Friday, January 06, 2006

Catlins

Back to a bit of civilisation. If Invercargill can desrcibed like that.

The Catlins is a very interesting part of this country. We drove down the 'Southern Scenic Route' to our first stop which was Surat Bay Lodge Backpackers. An exceptional place on the edge of a river estuary and a short walk along the beach to the sea lions.

The first evening we arrived I took a walk across to the beach along the 'path' during a short break between the insescant heavy showers and continually blowing winds (sound familiar). Anyway the path just disappeared and I struggled through the under growth, survived a close encounter with a hedgehog and finally over the top of the dunes I could wee the rollers on the beach front. At that point over my right shoulder, about 2 meters away a rather large blob of fur grumbled at me. It then told me in no uncertain turms to get lost. When I completed my 100 yard sprint I realised it must have been a pregnant female sea lion.

After a good sand-blasting on the beach I decided to find the path back. I eventually found one with alot of foot prints coming from it. I scrambled up the dune only to find the same angry sea lion staring at me. I eventually made it back after another altercation with the oh so friendly sea lions.

The next morning was a wash out and in the afternoon we went to Nugget point, another sea lion colony and a bit of a picture postcard spot. Even more so when it's not shrouded in grey I expect.

In the evening we went to Jack's blowhole. A collapsed cave with a 50m drop from the top to the cave which comes 200m from the cliff face. The name is misleading as it never actually blows. Although it does rain and we got soaked again.

Next day we left Surat Bay and headed on a magical mystery tour of 4 waterfalls and the Cathedral Caves. The first waterfall was great and they just got better and better culminating in McLeans Falls which were simply spectacular, the rain having atleast one plus point on our journey.

From there we went to Curio Bay Backpackers. This place was even better then the last. The huge french windows look out across the beach which is only 100 yards away and brimming with apparently hopeless surfers.

When the weather is good and the seas calm the Hector's Dolphin come and play in the surf infront of the house. Unfortunately the sea is more like chocolate at the moment so no dolphins.

We did have an encounter with a bunch of German idiots though. With 5 beds in the dorm, 4 of them turned up with out booking, scored our names off the booking board and proceeded to have thier lunch. Not the best way to endear yourself. They then pleaded that they were hitch-hiking and the next place was miles away and could one of them sleep on the couch. Reluctantly the owner agreed. So now that was settled they headed off in their car. Funny cos the last hitch-hiker we picked up never had a car.

Anyway they were off to see the nearby petrified forest. An ancient forest which was covered in a volcanic eruption. Sediment then built up on top and millions of years later the sea eroded that sediment to reveal the fossilised forest below. A strange feeling indeed, walking around amongst it.

As I walked back I saw a group of tourists with their cameras out, apparently filming the forest. Turned out there was a yellow eyed penguin walking across from the sea. So I just sat there still and waited for it to pass. A guy on the far side confirming that I should stay there and keep still. Two minutes later the DOC warden was yelling at me to 'go back'. Confused, I was but I headed back and met the warden in the car park and we had a good chat about the penguins. They have four nesting there and they're obviously pretty protective of them.

Anyway this morning we drove down in the continuing wind and rain to Slope Point, the most southerly point on mainland New Zealand and particularly un-inspiring. We then continued the un-inspring theme by coming to Invercargill.

Apologies for the huge screeds I'm just trying to get everything down so that I don't forget it all.

Fiordland next week, surely a highlight.

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